Stuff David Does: October 2010

Sometime in mid-August, while sitting around the campfire in the SAR (Search and Rescue) site, I overheard SAR member Sam Piper mention that one of the other team members, Ben, was in a predicament. Ben was camping in Little Slide Canyon, home to the Incredible Hulk, one of the best backcountry walls in the High Sierra. Situated at the end of the canyon for only climbers and intrepid hikers to see, it stands well over 1000' tall and sports many difficult free climbs on amazing high country granite.

Ben had been camping there for several days, and had lined up climbing partners for every day he was up there, enticing people with the idea that they would not have to hike up any extra climbing gear beyond their shoes and harness. He did not have a vehicle, and so was relying on his partner for the last day to give him a ride back to the SAR site for work. The problem arose when his partner (who shall remain anonymous, despite being a huge jerk) for that day decided to take a rest day and not hike up to meet Ben. This was problematic because Ben was stuck a 2-hour drive from the site and moreover, there was no way of contacting him to tell him the jerk had bailed on him.

Back to the campfire: the idea of someone else going up there to get him was thrown around, but everyone had plans or was working...except for me. Time: 11:00PM. Time I had to get up to make it there with time to climb with Ben: 4:00AM. I packed quickly while Sam drew me a map of the approach hike.

The next morning was a true alpine start. I was on the road by 4:40AM, on my way to Twin Lakes, the start of the approach for the Hulk.

Dawn on the Sawtooth range

The approach went well for the first hour...until I had to find the climber's trail that took me into Little Slide Canyon. I later learned I had severely overshot it. I began bushwhacking uphill into the canyon, across and over boulders. At least the view was beautiful!

I forgot the name of this formation, but luckily you don't need a name to appreciate beauty

After 2 hours of steep, vegetated battling, I found Ben tucked in under some boulders by the base of the Hulk. He expressed a little surprise at seeing me and offered my a quesadilla he had just cooked...how could I say no after the approach?

The Incredible Hulk!

We decided to climb Positive Vibrations (5.11a), a 1200 foot route following exceptional crack systems up the center of the formation.

Disclaimer: The following pictures are the best I could find out of the few I took. It was pretty windy, cold, and taking pictures while belaying is tricky at best. I also did not lead any of the pitches; I was not feeling my best. Regardless, I had a fantastic time on the route.